Courtesy of the author
- I traveled from San Diego to Tokyo with my 4-year-old daughter.
- Jet lag meant predawn convenience-store runs, naps, and a few public meltdowns.
- Waking early also let us experience a quieter side of Tokyo that most tourists miss.
At 3:47 a.m., my daughter sat fully upright in bed, wide awake and ready to start the day. It was



